



A full week in historic Xi'an, China
We had such a great time during our ODYNOVO tour of Xi’an, China that we were a bit sad to see it come to an end, even though we spent an entire week there – more than the usual visitor perhaps. We visited: • The Hanyangling Mausoleum of the 4th Emperor of the Han dynasty and marveled at the curated 2,000+ year old burial pits of the Emperor and his court. The site has been wonderfully preserved and presented as an underground museum with walkways surrounding the glass enclosed burial pits. • The elegant and charming Gao residence (Tang Dynasty) in the Muslim Quarter where we watched a lively shadow puppet show and took a class in calligraphy from a master calligrapher. Great fun and educational! • The museum of the Mausoleum of Emperor Qinshihuang with the Terra Cotta warriors – truly one of the wonders of the world. The quality and quantity of the terra cotta warriors and horses in the three pits is mind boggling. The overall museum campus is large and artfully presented. • The Big Wild Goose Pagoda where we saw spectacular gold buddhas and enjoyed the lovely gardens. We did not climb the pagoda, however. The site has been beautifully landscaped and preserved. • The wall surrounding the ancient city of Xi’an – on a rainy day when there was no activity on the wall and visibility was limited. We would have enjoyed another visit to the wall on a sunny day. • The Forest of Stone Steles museum, set in the grounds of a former Confucian temple. This museum is a remarkable blend of traditional and modern architecture to display huge stone tablets inscribed in the five different styles of Chinese calligraphy. The precision of the carved writings on the stone tablets is amazing. Tablets such as these were studied to prepare for the annual merit exam for senior positions in the administration of Tang emperors. The museum includes some fun interactive exhibits; and we can highly recommend a visit to the coffee shop, which is full of surprises. • Mount Huashan, about a 2 hour drive to the northeast of Xi’an. It is accessed through a well organized national park where you take buses up tight winding mountain roads to the base of the gondola for an 8 or 20 minute ride to the top, depending on the peak. We took the shorter ride to the North Peak. Once at the top of the gondola, many more steps awaited us, as all the hiking on top is vertical – either up or down. It was not the kind of hike that we had envisioned, and it was very strenuous; but we were glad we made the visit because the views were spectacular. Nearly all of the visitors were Chinese; and there were a variety of food stations up on the mountain. We also learned: • Mahjong and played it with local players at a Mahjong parlor; and • How to make dumplings in the home of a very gracious local resident, where we dined on the dumplings we made; We saw several spectacular artistic performances: • “The Song of Everlasting Sorrow” presented on a small lake within the gorgeous Huaqing Palace grounds – a stunning combination of surprising waterworks, stage sets that emerge from the lake, acrobatics, acting, song and dance, big screen projections and special lighting effects that include elements on the mountain behind the scene. An amazing production and you don’t need to understand Chinese to follow it. • The Tang Dynasty show about the rise of the Empress Wu at the downtown Tangle Palace Theater. This was both an elegant dining experience and a beautiful and skillful performance by young artists accompanied by an orchestra of traditional Chinese musical instruments in front of spectacular background projections. It was a very classy show; and there were subtitles in Chinese and English. • The Silk Road Experience presented in a pavilion about a 45 minute drive to the northeast of Xi’an, which portrays the difficulties faced by ordinary Chinese who participated in Silk Road caravans. Some returned prosperous and some didn’t survive the journey. The show uses live camels and “wolves” in various stage sets in a circular arena with a revolving auditorium. We cannot say enough good things about our guide Jessica. She speaks excellent English, taught us an enormous amount about the history of Xi’an, the major Chinese dynasties, and Chinese history, culture, calligraphy styles, cuisine and more. She was very attentive to our needs and adjusted our schedule accordingly. We started at 9:00 or 9:30 most days, at 8:00 on the day we went to Mount Huashan, and at 11:00 on the day when we had the evening performance of the “Song of Everlasting Sorrow” at the summer palace. We were able to enjoy that extraordinary outdoor performance because she brilliantly switched the Wednesday and Thursday plans of our itinerary so that we weren’t rained out of that show. She also adjusted the itinerary for our visit to Mount Huashan to reduce the difficulty for us. We had been traveling for 3 weeks before arriving in Xi’an and were both dealing with unanticipated foot and leg pains that developed during our pre-Xi’an travels. Jessica helped us to get some relief of those issues. Climbing Mount Huashan was indeed a different and more challenging experience than what we anticipated. I think we performed better than expected, but the reduced difficulty itinerary was the appropriate choice that enabled us to enjoy the experience. She also selected excellent typical local restaurants for our lunches and helped us make good food selections. She persisted without complaint even while dealing with a temporary loss of voice. All in all, she was not just a knowledgeable and effective guide but also a great travel companion. Our driver, Mr. Tong, was also excellent and exceeded our expectations. He is very friendly and gracious and speaks just enough English. His skill at navigating the traffic congestion in Xi’an and the destinations we visited was nothing short of astounding. After the evening performance of the Tang Dynasty musical extravaganza celebrating the accession of the Empress Wu to the throne (a fantastic dinner theater experience that also far exceeded our expectations), he met us in the lobby – recognizing us amid the hundreds of attendees exiting the performance – and escorted us to his waiting van right in front of the doors to the theater (after he took our pictures with the cast)! He is indeed a superior driver. We made our own hotel and plane arrangements, and we highly recommend the Sofitel Xi’an where we stayed. It is delightfully situated with two other hotels of the same group in a tucked away compound that was a charming refuge from the bustling city. The staff were very friendly and accommodating and the food and beverages were very good. Our Odynovo Travel Consultant Corinna was superbly responsive and accommodating of all of our tour planning requests. She was a pleasure to work with; and everything fell into place in a timely manner as she predicted. Our experience with ODYNOVO was excellent and we expect to use them again in the future.